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A couple weeks later it went into my daughters room, and the little alarm clock on top left an impression in the finish. I switched to Arm-R-Seal as my go-to finish and have not had any problems since. You identified the problem at "oiled a month before".
That stuff takes forever to cure and the oil was likely not completely catalyzed. That will inhibit the dryers in the poly top coat. Since this is a table top and will be subject to use, I would strip it down and re-finish. Thanks Ed, I think I will try wiping the minwax fast dry on a scrap and see how it goes. Sounds like you have a coat built up already, and you don't need much build.
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I wouldn't try to repair, but at this point you may have nothing to loose. Smoothing it out and then recoating it may solve the problem. If you are unhappy with it, then a strip and re finish may be in order. I was surprised at what the Minwax rep told you. Varnish is a reactive finish, that is the varnish actually chemically combines with oxygen to cure.
Can I just sand out the marks and recoat? It is walnut and had been oiled a month before I applied varnish. Minwax said light sand and a coat of their fast dry, but I am leery of their products now. Protect your interior wood projects and keep them looking beautiful when using Minwax Polyurethane Wood Finish.
minwax high build poly will not dry
This oil-based clear sealer protective coating protects and adds long-lasting beauty to woodwork, furniture, doors, cabinets and floors. It’s one of the most durable coatings for wood protection against scratches, spills and more, and is a clear coat. It can be used on both finished and unfinished wood projects, and is available in a variety of sheens. The fast-drying formula allows for quick recoats in 4-6 hours. Minwax® Wood Finish™ is a penetrating oil-based wood stain, which provides beautiful rich color that enhances the natural wood grain. Then lightly sand entire surface with fine sandpaper (220-grit) to ensure an even finish and proper adhesion.
I have now been using arm r seal with success and about to try waterlox on a project. True, but minwax doesn't need a reason not to cure, it just does what it wants when it wants. My own experience with applying minwax over a clean, bare surface is over in the review section (search for "lemon marmalade"). I have never had problems with Minwax on a warm dry day when working on clean wood with a fresh can of finish. However when one or more of the above problems are present, you take your chances, but note that though these can cause problems, they are all fixable. Wen I am through I will donate the leftover minwax products to the local Restore.
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Tag @minwaxusaon Instagram to have your project featured. If a third coat is desired, repeat step 6 before application. Get the latest inspiration on color and cutting edge design. Save your favorite colors, photos, and past orders all in one place. With PaintPerks, you'll always be the first to hear about big sales and have access to everyday savings and exclusive offers. Plus, you can order your paint and supplies right from our site.
If you sand it smooth and do a couple real thin wiping coats, you may be in business. Only caveat here is I'm not sure how thinned the "Fast Dry" mixture really is. Fred, I have to disagree with your comment on the oil. If Minwax was applied over dry walnut, there is no reason for it not to cure. Since the OP did not specify the type of oil, I would guess it had some effect on the driers of the Poly finish. Minwax® 350 VOC Helmsman® Spar Urethane is specifically formulated to protect wood against nature’s toughest conditions.
The enhanced ultraviolet absorbers found in Helmsman® reduce the graying and fading effects of the sun. Use a lot of MW poly and dont have a problem with it, but I dont use it for a fully filled, thick film finish . From your description it "sounds" like you put a pretty thick heavy coat on, so Im not that surprised its taking a long time to fully oxidize. FYI MW is ~42% solids and ARS is ~31% solids. More solids build faster but take longer to cure.
Putting thinner on it does nothing to speed that process up, though it probably didn't slow it down any either. The thinner would simply evaporate and the varnish keeps curing. Adding a bit of air movement, and maybe some warmth would both speed up the reaction.
Apply a THIN coat of Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane using a high-quality, natural bristle or foam brush. Surface must be dry and free of paint, wax, grease, polish, old finishes in poor condition or any foreign matter. Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane 350 VOC is a clear, oil-based, durable protective finish.
For floor projects, use a square buff orbital or disk-type sander with 220-grit sandpaper or the equivalent grit pad or screen . Do not use a belt or drum-type sander for sanding between coats. Follow the sander manufacturer’s directions for your type of project. I have given away the balance of the minwax high build and moved to arm r seal. After reading a review by a poor guy who coated all the floors in his house, I feel better.
Avoid heavy traffic and replacing of furniture for 72 hours after the final coat. Do not install rugs or clean floors for 7 days. If desired, apply stain, such as Minwax® Wood Finish™ Stain to unfinished interior wood surfaces. Follow directions for application instructions and dry times.
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