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Apply a THIN coat of Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane using a high-quality, natural bristle or foam brush. Surface must be dry and free of paint, wax, grease, polish, old finishes in poor condition or any foreign matter. Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane 350 VOC is a clear, oil-based, durable protective finish.
I consider them the Harbor Freight of the finishing world (I hope that isn't too insulting to HF). When used on hardwood floors, use a lambswool or synthetic pad applicator, or a natural bristle brush and maintain a wet edge to avoid lap marks. For maximum durability, we recommend 3 coats.
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Well I hope I can get some help with this. I bought some minwax high build polyurethane varnish hoping I could put 1 or 2 coats on a table and be done. I put on 1 coat and found I easy though almost immediately i had brush drag when I tried to smooth out brush marks.
A couple weeks later it went into my daughters room, and the little alarm clock on top left an impression in the finish. I switched to Arm-R-Seal as my go-to finish and have not had any problems since. You identified the problem at "oiled a month before".
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Avoid heavy traffic and replacing of furniture for 72 hours after the final coat. Do not install rugs or clean floors for 7 days. If desired, apply stain, such as Minwax® Wood Finish™ Stain to unfinished interior wood surfaces. Follow directions for application instructions and dry times.
Tag @minwaxusaon Instagram to have your project featured. If a third coat is desired, repeat step 6 before application. Get the latest inspiration on color and cutting edge design. Save your favorite colors, photos, and past orders all in one place. With PaintPerks, you'll always be the first to hear about big sales and have access to everyday savings and exclusive offers. Plus, you can order your paint and supplies right from our site.
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I have now been using arm r seal with success and about to try waterlox on a project. True, but minwax doesn't need a reason not to cure, it just does what it wants when it wants. My own experience with applying minwax over a clean, bare surface is over in the review section (search for "lemon marmalade"). I have never had problems with Minwax on a warm dry day when working on clean wood with a fresh can of finish. However when one or more of the above problems are present, you take your chances, but note that though these can cause problems, they are all fixable. Wen I am through I will donate the leftover minwax products to the local Restore.
Its a good idea to thin the MW 20% or so for any coat. Glad you ve found something that works for you. Before I got into woodworking, I thought poly was poly, and Minwax was reputable stuff. Once I started using better finishes, I was amazed at the difference. Glad you've found something that works for you. The silver lining is this disaster has pushed me to find new products to use and indeed to find this forum.
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I'm not sure what you mean by "oiled a month before", but I'm doubtful it caused the problem. Regardless of what you try, I wish you the best. I had a similar experience with Minwax High-Build, and I didn't use any oil. I applied a sealcoat of 1LB dewaxed shellac, which was sanded back when dry. About a week later I put on 2-3 coats of the Minwax, it seemed to go fine.
This oil-based clear sealer protective coating protects and adds long-lasting beauty to woodwork, furniture, doors, cabinets and floors. It’s one of the most durable coatings for wood protection against scratches, spills and more, and is a clear coat. It can be used on both finished and unfinished wood projects, and is available in a variety of sheens. The fast-drying formula allows for quick recoats in 4-6 hours. Minwax® Wood Finish™ is a penetrating oil-based wood stain, which provides beautiful rich color that enhances the natural wood grain. Then lightly sand entire surface with fine sandpaper (220-grit) to ensure an even finish and proper adhesion.
The table was in my air conditioned kitchen and to my shock it was not dry the following day. After 9 days it seemed dry and we had friends over to dinner. On cleaning up I say the impression of our plates on the finish through a cloth place mat. I called minwax, who suggested letting it dry and wiping down with thinner to accelerate the drying. I have let the table be for 4 months, but am wondering how do I go about repairing the finish?
He could not recoat or walk on them for a week. I am going to try a little light sanding/scraping to see if I can smooth the ridges and recoat with minwax fast dry for 2 reasons. There will always be differences of opinion on forums like this.
I wouldn't try to repair, but at this point you may have nothing to loose. Smoothing it out and then recoating it may solve the problem. If you are unhappy with it, then a strip and re finish may be in order. I was surprised at what the Minwax rep told you. Varnish is a reactive finish, that is the varnish actually chemically combines with oxygen to cure.
The enhanced ultraviolet absorbers found in Helmsman® reduce the graying and fading effects of the sun. Use a lot of MW poly and dont have a problem with it, but I dont use it for a fully filled, thick film finish . From your description it "sounds" like you put a pretty thick heavy coat on, so Im not that surprised its taking a long time to fully oxidize. FYI MW is ~42% solids and ARS is ~31% solids. More solids build faster but take longer to cure.
minwax high build poly will not dry
I've used a lot of BLO, and the most I ever waited for it to dry was one week when being top coated with waterbornes. I've never had a problem with anything not curing on top of it once the BLO itself had cured enough. With most other finishes I only wait one day, with shellac even less . Now, the OP said the table was oiled a month before he topcoated; I would bet the month's SS check that if it was BLO it didn't impact the curing of the varnish. I didn't say in my original replay, but I was thinking along the lines ofwhat Justjoe said about Minwax.
All of these can effect the way polyurethane drys/cures. I need a coach ….refinish oak table top.i like the high build look. I cringe at the thought of a complete strip of a walnut veneer table top. Sand to obtain a smooth, uniform surface. Pre-pay for multiple images and download on demand. See what’s possible, and then make it happen.
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